What did you do with your DII today?
#7011
4.6 is cracked
coolant seeping into 3 cylinders from between block and sleeves...right after I rebuilt it, and it previously passed coolant and pressure checks.
4.0 and 4.6 blocks are the same, the 4.6's extra displacement comes from the stroke, and the 4.0's don't commonly have liner problems like the 03/04 4.6's do(mine is an 04).
So, swap the good new 4.6 guts into a 4.0 block(or an 02 or previous P38 4.6 from a Range Rover, I just found a good 4.0 first).
coolant seeping into 3 cylinders from between block and sleeves...right after I rebuilt it, and it previously passed coolant and pressure checks.
4.0 and 4.6 blocks are the same, the 4.6's extra displacement comes from the stroke, and the 4.0's don't commonly have liner problems like the 03/04 4.6's do(mine is an 04).
So, swap the good new 4.6 guts into a 4.0 block(or an 02 or previous P38 4.6 from a Range Rover, I just found a good 4.0 first).
#7012
4.6 is cracked
coolant seeping into 3 cylinders from between block and sleeves...right after I rebuilt it, and it previously passed coolant and pressure checks.
4.0 and 4.6 blocks are the same, the 4.6's extra displacement comes from the stroke, and the 4.0's don't commonly have liner problems like the 03/04 4.6's do(mine is an 04).
So, swap the good new 4.6 guts into a 4.0 block(or an 02 or previous P38 4.6 from a Range Rover, I just found a good 4.0 first).
coolant seeping into 3 cylinders from between block and sleeves...right after I rebuilt it, and it previously passed coolant and pressure checks.
4.0 and 4.6 blocks are the same, the 4.6's extra displacement comes from the stroke, and the 4.0's don't commonly have liner problems like the 03/04 4.6's do(mine is an 04).
So, swap the good new 4.6 guts into a 4.0 block(or an 02 or previous P38 4.6 from a Range Rover, I just found a good 4.0 first).
Last edited by wjsj69; 12-09-2019 at 12:27 PM.
#7013
Hey Sixpack, could you post a pic of the top of your 4.6? I recently watched a vid from RPI, showing machining marks at some of the cam bores, indicating misalignment of the block casting, and ultimately, the reason for the cracks. Just wondering if your block has these marks? I have a 4.6 and am wondering; If there are no misalignment marks, is the block worthy of reusing? Or play it safe and use a 4.0 or P38-4.6 block..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zLGbESGYRU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zLGbESGYRU
My 4.6 looked awful, had a tremendous amount of rough casting throughout the lifter valley.
I knocked alot of it out before rebuilding it.
The 4.0 I have looks alot better in terms of rough cast and extra material.
#7014
Hey Sixpack, could you post a pic of the top of your 4.6? I recently watched a vid from RPI, showing machining marks at some of the lifter bores, indicating misalignment of the block casting, and ultimately, the reason for the cracks. Just wondering if your block has these marks? I have a 4.6 and am wondering; If there are no misalignment marks, is the block worthy of reusing? Or play it safe and use a 4.0 or P38-4.6 block..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zLGbESGYRU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zLGbESGYRU
Is this what you were looking for, or do you want a picture of somewhere else?
#7015
The following users liked this post:
Sixpack577 (12-10-2019)
#7016
#7017
The following users liked this post:
Sixpack577 (12-10-2019)
#7018
Found the source of a ticking noise, vacuum leak at the SAI nipple on the throttle body. little rubber boot was all loose, cinched it up with a small zip tie, noise gone, idles better.
Also aimed the headlights, much better night vision now. Amazing how far off they were, mostly to the high side, never did adjust them after the 2" lift. Now some light actually hits the road ahead of me at night. I was inspired to do this by a post from Best4x4 a while back when he mentioned that he aim the headlights every time he gets another Disco. I can see why now. Previously no light at all hit the road with the possible exception of going up a steep hill. I parked right next to a wall, marked the center of the beams, backed up 25 feet and adjusted the beams 2" down and the left beam a bit to the right.
Also aimed the headlights, much better night vision now. Amazing how far off they were, mostly to the high side, never did adjust them after the 2" lift. Now some light actually hits the road ahead of me at night. I was inspired to do this by a post from Best4x4 a while back when he mentioned that he aim the headlights every time he gets another Disco. I can see why now. Previously no light at all hit the road with the possible exception of going up a steep hill. I parked right next to a wall, marked the center of the beams, backed up 25 feet and adjusted the beams 2" down and the left beam a bit to the right.
#7020
Found the source of a ticking noise, vacuum leak at the SAI nipple on the throttle body. little rubber boot was all loose, cinched it up with a small zip tie, noise gone, idles better.
Also aimed the headlights, much better night vision now. Amazing how far off they were, mostly to the high side, never did adjust them after the 2" lift. Now some light actually hits the road ahead of me at night. I was inspired to do this by a post from Best4x4 a while back when he mentioned that he aim the headlights every time he gets another Disco. I can see why now. Previously no light at all hit the road with the possible exception of going up a steep hill. I parked right next to a wall, marked the center of the beams, backed up 25 feet and adjusted the beams 2" down and the left beam a bit to the right.
Also aimed the headlights, much better night vision now. Amazing how far off they were, mostly to the high side, never did adjust them after the 2" lift. Now some light actually hits the road ahead of me at night. I was inspired to do this by a post from Best4x4 a while back when he mentioned that he aim the headlights every time he gets another Disco. I can see why now. Previously no light at all hit the road with the possible exception of going up a steep hill. I parked right next to a wall, marked the center of the beams, backed up 25 feet and adjusted the beams 2" down and the left beam a bit to the right.