I drove my 04’ Disco a bunch this weekend. This was the first really hot humid, Alabama summer weekend we’ve had so I was interested to monitor cooling system performance.

Coolant temps are perfect. 182-199 all the time, except:

At idle, in 95 degree heat, with the A/C on full blast. Temps never got dangerous, but topped out at 217 before I brought up the rpm and cooled it down. But, I noticed there was no electric fan noise than should have come on around 212.

It idled for 15 minutes plus like that with no fan and hottest I saw was 217, (Stabilized around 212-215) which I thought was pretty good for no aux fan.

Found a blown fuse for the fan, then went a bit further and found that the auxiliary fan appears to be seized.

Anyone have recommendations for auxiliary fans? Cheap would be nice, but I’d rather buy quality now and not replace again any time soon.

 

There was just a post the other day on here mentioning the P/N for a Efan motor that was compatible.I know for sure the smaller AC fan on the 93-96 Toyota Corolla is a perfect replacement for the D1 Efan motor.

 

@Best4x4 of course as soon as I posted this I found the post you are referring to. It’s an Autozone part number and fits a variety of vehicles. Found one on Amazon for $54 and one review: “perfect fit for my 2001 Discovery”

How about that? Got it ordered as well as a comb for the rad, trans cooler, and a/c condenser. They all need some TLC.

My coolant leak is super minor and only seems to occur when the truck is running at operating temperature for a very long period of time, usually after idling for a long time.

Might be pesky to track down as it barely looses any coolant, but I see drips under the radiator after the above mentioned conditions on occasion.

I figured than since the a/c condenser fan isn’t working that I should fix that first before tracking down the leak, in the off chance that it’s somehow related.

Ive learned in the past (and read a lot on this forum!) to do one thing at a time, and not to throw parts at a problem until it’s properly diagnosed.

 

Prepped and painted the roof with herculiner. Then I clayed, polished and waxed the remaining paint wiped down the trim. Found a coolant leak but thankfully it was just a loose hose clamp.



Easy fix!

 

Drove the Disco into Vancouver and home about 50 miles (80km), temps never exceeded 195.2 at stop lights. Ok 199.1 when I drove into the driveway but it is along slow up hill to my house, almost idle rpm for 3 blocks.

Temps were beautiful on the hiway 186-190 100-120 KPH (60-70ish MPH)

Picked up up a new to me transmission bezel all 4 hold downs largely intact and a battery cover

 

Cherish the moment...because it will be short lived.

 

After the HF jack stand recall, I bought a pair of locking 12 ton jack stands (£48 + lifetime warranty) and a pair of ginormous rubber wheel chocks (£28 + 2 year warranty) from SGS engineering here in the UK.

 

So I had a combination of problems this week - coolant bleeder T turns out to have small crack, bleeding off steam very slowly, coolant loss noticeable but hard to find source. Carrs supplied the new aluminum T with bleeder. I replaced a bunch of hoses, and installed a Lucky8 180 t-stat that I carried cross country last year on our trip as a back up. The old t-stat was starting to act oddly, although I might have just been seeing a side-effect of the steam leak. All fixed now!

Two weeks ago, I noticed that the Yakima towers and extensions were rubbing the roof. I went at them again, trying everything, could not get them to line up without hitting. Took rack and bars off, started again. I had the OE front rack and two cross bars, but no good for hauling multiple boats on a Yakima load warrior w/extension. I finally figured out that I just needed a set of the extensions for the OE rack.

So we took the Tundra to the Pick Your Part yesterday, and my wife went along. She loves demo when we do house projects, and she wanted to see the junkyard, pull some parts. The lot in Jessup MD had a truck with the extensions. Easy, someone had already ripped out the headliner. Took pics for drilling reference, took only a few minutes to pull the rack.

Sorry, I'm ahead of myself. In the way that random crap somehow happens at the same time, as the coolant job got done, the slow battery drain became more evident. I planned to pull the leftovers from the rear air suspension, and the fuse. That went well. Then checked voltage. 11.7 everywhere. Alternator gone. So we grabbed a 130A OE Bosch and a set of positive cables from PYP while we were there.

Today, alternator drops right in. Voltage good everywhere, perhaps a 0.3 drop from box to positive battery terminal, everywhere else I read matches what it says on my UltraGauge exactly. Looking good!

So, what did I do with my Land Rover today? Just took a drive to take the dog to the vet. 188 degrees. 13.8 volts at idle with AC on. Roof rack back in place and ready to haul boats. And bonus, the battery was disconnected, so it's more "peppy" while it relearns. So I'm gonna push it a bit to learn to shift higher.

All in all, a good end to what started out to be a tough week. Oh yeah, budget? Alternator, all positive battery cables, an OEM Land Rover spare tire cover (wife spotted that!), and the roof rack extensions - under $63, and an hour of driving time. Not a bad deal. As Edd would say, "Result!",

 

Result!

 

I have the DCD front bumper too! Love it...

Can you post or dm me a close pic of the herculiner? Im thinking of doing it too.