So today I get C1A18-64 pressure increases too rapid, and then C1A20-64 pressure increases too slow right after each other. Random C1131-92 component failure performance or incorrect operation. Oh, and after I cleared the last 2 it ran fine until the next time I started it. The joys of LR EAS.

 

What brand of compressor do you currently have installed? What brand of compressor was OEM? What type compressor does the firmware show in the GAP Tool? Is the intake tube blocked? Did you check the intake filter? What are the temps and current load on the compressor when it is running? Does the compressor operate normally while driving (i.e do you here it come on at a stop light) try selecting access height and off road height in the parking lot and se if the code come back after driving awhile.

Seems odd that you would have a weak compressor and a stuck pressure relief valve at the same time.

Just guessing here. This is a new one for me.

Jeff

 

It's a Hitachi "bitsa" . The compressor was a Chinese Hitachi copy and when I first acquired the Rescue Rover it wasn't working it's best, and I found the valve under the black cover had a slipped O ring and was stuck. I had on hand a Hitachi that was good except that it would not develop presuure, it would run until it shut down. So by combining the best of the 2 I came up with a compressor that does build pressure and sometimes works....sometimes not, but can always be cajoled into working by clearing faults and re-enabling the EAS.
I have some new dryer beads and a valve repair kit on hand, already replaced the front and center valve blocks and the front springs, as those were leaking when I bought it. Not uncommon at 186K miles and 16 years. It's a work in progress!

 

I've had a good run with light globes in the D3 having to only had to replace to globes in the brake lights in my 7 year ownership, i noticed a couple had blown last week so decided it was time to update to LED's.
Replaced 8 in the tail lights and have 2 to fit in the parker position when i feel like removing my bullbar to get the head lights out, that'll be for another day when i remove the orange lens and fit the chrome/orange bulbs.

 

What did I do? Put the Rescue Rover in access mode to load a snowblower and now it barely comes up in the rear and refuses to come up in the front,. When I first put it down into access height lI got red lights on the tire height indicators and a red suspension light. I took it home on the bump stops, jacked it up to get the sensors to notmal height and cleaered and reset the EAS, the compressor will run a bit and then shut off, I was able to get the rear end up a bit but can't get the front end to recover at all. Irritating given that it has been working really well over the weekend. Is there a secret to recovering my lost height and to get everything to just work? Besides coils which I am more and more understanding why people install them.

 

Finally was able to remove a frozen hitch 3+ years. I was towing a boat a few years back and was unable to remove the hitch using the green ****. I tried to rubber mallet off off etc. You really can't get any leverage using the puny green handle. I think I was going to use a grinder to cut it off. I just left it on year round and finally found this removal tool. You have to knock out a roll pin on the green handle and slide if off then swap the gear with one that has a 22mm nut on the end for some real leverage. Using just a Large crescent wrench I was able to muscle the pin to retract. (I jacked up the car 1" from bottom of hitch to take any pressure off the pin. Once I retracted the pin just a hard rap with a ruber mallet and the hitch dropped to the ground. I'm cleaning it up but so far I can't get that large pin out of it. Just going to soak it for a long time in penetrating oil. I ended up buy a new smaller hitch.

That is a goofy hitch design for sure, built to easily fail from rust. I plan on getting the rust off of it prime and paint it like new. Any advise of what paint to use?

 

Replaced the right hand side bonnet latch. Would have replaced the left hand side one, too, but one of the torx screws on that side was so messed up and rusted/tight that the screw head broke because procurement had 20 years ago bought weak metal. FFS.

 

So is there a guide to the volume of dryer beads to install when replacing them? And would too many cause a pressure rising too slow? I redid my compressor, changed that rubber stopper valve, spring and O-ring and the beads and now I get C1131-92 and C1A20-64 and a total lack of interest in raising my rover. The galley pressure gets to 45 psi and thens gives up. Plan is to fetch it back out again, take out some of the beads and try again.

 

Good gnus-finally got the rescue rover off the stops. Gave up on the Chitanium hita-chi compressor which hadn't functioned at all since I fixed it last time and swapped the parts I borrowed back onto the Hitachi I pulled off my friends L322 a while back. I then used the "test valves" function of the Gao tpol to manually raise the suspension to where it needs to be, and it's holding fine.
Bad gnus-first off the wiring is a bit different between the RR and LR application. The wires all go to the same place in the plug but the sensor/exhaust solenoid plug is female and so is the LR3 side of that connection, so that took a bit of time to wire the LR3 plug onto the RR unit. Other bit of bad gnus was that the RR unit is indeed bad and doesn't build pressure very well, so I have ordered a piston ring rebuild kit that should sort that out. I did check the cap for cracks and it looked fine. Lessons learned for sure.

 

I tightened two 12mm an eighth of a turn each!
Only took me 3+ hours!

________________________

#1 was the voss fitting on the air tank, slight leak.
Had to drop the tank to access it.

#2 was the voss fitting on the front passenger air strut, huge leak.
Had to drop the strut to access it.

At least the repair was free - and now it doesn't even drop 1mm overnight!
I win LOL.